Gardens are on the verge of collapse, but there is still much to be done. Many of you have some questions. For questions, ask an expert from the Oregon State University Extension Service Online Q&A tool. OSU Extension faculty and senior gardeners will answer questions within two business days, usually less. Simply go to ask a question OSU Extension Website And include it and the province where you live. Here are some questions from other gardeners. What is yours?
Q: Five or six years ago, I planted three 6-foot-tall trees. Last year someone started missing needles. I removed the tree, thinking he was dying. Now the other two seem really sick and injecting needles. If I have bad soil and / or can they be saved?
A: It is sad to lose such beautiful women. Sorry.
Dig the lost, to examine the roots? That may tell you a few things. Alternatives include planting deep or very deep or root rot. Sometimes trees are planted with twin, burp or metal roots, and as the tree grows, it “chokes”. Rotating roots can also be planted and killed years after the tree is planted.
How do you take care of them? What kind of irrigation and fertilizer do you use? How to care for your lawn? There are some grass care products that cannot be used around conifers.
Are tree bark signs on insects or cannons?
And last but not least, what kind of trees are these? We can determine their natural decline in our climate. (Your one looks like one of the colored cedars, like a white cedar.) Oregon Terrain Page This page shows other common cedars. – Jackie Dugan, OSU Extension Master Gardener
ArugulaOSU Extension Service
Q: This year our garden beds have gone gangsters. After the successful run of Pacele and Cilantro, I replaced some healthy arugula. I soon noticed some holes and then some small black bugs on the leaves. Then many of them. I have done some research and it has been suggested that most online resources are going their way.
Well, it’s worse and I’m not sure much will be left for Arugula. The last couple of days have seemed a bit unfocused. Also, is there anything I can do now and how can I prevent them in the future? And finally, we are looking to plant two fruit trees in the yard (probably persimmon trees) and vines. When is the best time of year to plant these? – Benton County
A: From your photo, we could not see pictures of insects. From your description it looks like a flea beetle. Fleetle beetles are metallic greenish-brown to black in color and 0.06 to 0.12 inches long. When they grow up, their hind legs make a name for themselves; When disturbed, they jump like fleas.
You can’t do anything this year. In the future, you can remove old plants to prevent them from growing in your garden.
When planting high-value seedlings for next year, it can be used to isolate floating rows or other filter beetles. Fleet beetles can be left on the leaves, but this must be repeated. Re-invasion of plants can be quick. Here is more information about flea beetles and how to manage them.
Plant your persimmon trees as soon as the soil permits in winter or early spring. More information on planting persimmon trees is here. About the vine, plant your vineyard in early spring. And here is more details on planting a vineyard. – Deborah Kern, OSU Extension Master Gardener
Apple InjuryOSU Extension Service
Q: Can you tell me what worked for me? Is there a pesticide for this problem? – Polk County
A: Chest, moth seems to be decaying. Non-Pest Control includes cleaning and packing fruit in the spring to prevent moths from laying eggs on the fruit. Local garden suppliers or online retailers sell fruit bags. This page is from Kentucky, but it gives you an idea of what a fruit bag looks like.
Here are a few publications you may want to learn more about – Managing diseases and pests in indoor gardens and many more details on the Codling Moth on the PNW Insect Management Guide page (Note – this page has information for home gardeners and business gardeners.) . – Brooke Edmonds, OSU Extension Gardener
Q: I’m thinking of putting a bat on my property. I was told that Oregon had a high incidence of disease in our bat. Is this true? I love bats. Is it okay?
A: Bats can be infected with rabies. However, you need to catch a bite and scratch or bite to catch the disease. So as long as you don’t catch an infected bat with your bare hands, you are safe. If you find an injured or sick bat, appropriate action can be found here.
Therefore, planting a bat does not increase the risk of rabies. And as far as I know, bats are not infected with other diseases in Oregon. Bats, on the other hand, eat mosquitoes that carry various serious illnesses, so the presence of bats can certainly protect you from them. – Chris Adlam, Regional Wildlife Fire Specialist
Plowing or not, that’s the question. File file.
Q: The soil in an old garden bed is incredibly heavy and compact. Is it better to rotate it again to rejuvenate the garden bed and add improvements, or is there another way to improve the soil? – Multinoma County
A: What a great question about rejuvenating soil compacted in a garden bed. There seem to be two philosophies about decay.
One will damage the soil structure, create a solid layer below the level and only add fertilizer to the top of the soil and allow worms and bacteria to do the rest.
Another method is to add up to 6 inches of compost and add nitrogen when the compost breaks down to get a little more agility in the soil. Running on compacted, dry and hard soils now would be a real job and I think the third option might be better.
There are some root crops, radish and turnips that can work hard with a little water and can be planted this year. According to the Natural Resources Protection Service –
“Grazing radish (Rafanus Sativs) And livestock (Brazika Rap) They are chronic cover crops that can degrade surface and groundwater, weed control and weed control. Plant enough to allow the roots to ripen and grow deep. They die in the winter and are left clean Sowed for early vegetable crops. It can also be sown for the previous cover. Do not let him go to the seed. ”- Ronda Freck-Wright, OSU Extension Master Gardener