No. 2 Best Garden Month
Spend some time on this Labor Day weekend to enjoy the fruits (and flowers) of your gardening.
May is hard to beat in the garden as it is in Pennsylvania, but September gives it a run for its money.
The daytime temperatures in July and August this year often return to the 70s and low 80s, although a few final, 90-degree flashes cannot be ruled out.
Rain falls most often in September. Normally. Although we can find thunderstorms, hurricanes and hurricanes, we can still see the summer, summer storms.
It is refreshing to see tropical plants fall by the rains in September. Only when you think he is ready to call the landscape.
Cooling temperatures and frequent rainfall add up to a month, making it ideal for many backyard activities during the holidays.
Planting thin grass or starting a new project is the main project of September.
It is also a good time to plant a lot of plants or move those who have realized they are in the wrong place.
- Read George’s tips on planting
Harvesting offers one more thing – reduced weed competition. Very little weeds grow in the spring and summer, so when they dig that soil and start watering the new plants, they don’t get more dandelions than the dianos.
We are just a month and a half away from the glory of the fallen leaves, but in the meantime, enjoy a good time for the second flower of the year with Mother, Esther, Golden, Sedum, those who gather from the garden and the year.
Cut the lower leaves from the top pieces, on the left side, and twist in the hormonal powder, right, before sticking in the clay mixture.
From cut new plants
Starting from seed is not the only way to build a new plant.
Many plants can start with fragments taken from mother plant tips.
It’s easier than you think, and this year is a good time to try it if you want to keep and / or increase the number of plants growing in the landscape.
The basic idea is to pull the tips from the parent plant branches and persuade them to grow in a pot. Once you get out of these “pieces”, you have a new baby plant.
Some plants make this easier than others. Coliseus, begonia, Lantana, Salvia, geranium, butterfly bush, boxwood, Persian shield, umbrella plant, and the elderly are the simplest.
But even if you do fall, you will lose a little time and a lot of things, free plants.
The Cutting Bonus gives you the exact copies of the plants you are duplicating. Seeds give you more dynamic results.
September is a good month to cut down annual, tropical, perennial and even many trees, shrubs and vegetation.
It is especially important to be busy with tender plants that die after frost.
With wooden plants, do not despair if you do not succeed now. Time will make a big difference with them. If you do not “pick up” pieces in the fall, try cutting back at the young branch tips in June.
Here’s how to cut it
1.) Cut 4 to 6 inches at the end of healthy stems or branches.
2.) Remove the lower leaves to make at least one – and especially two – nodes. Branches are the point at which sprouts grow. They are new roots that grow out of the bushes.
3.) Peel a squash, grate it and squeeze the juice. Hormones help, but many pieces grow without it. Pour the flour evenly over a clean surface and squeeze the cut end. If one of your cuts is sick, the cut ends up in a flour container.
4.) To make a small hole, insert a pencil into a lightweight clay mixture or a medium-sized pot filled with seeds. Insert the tip of the cutting powder into the center of the wet root, covering the nodes.
5.) Rinse well, and cover the pot with a clear plastic wrap or plastic bag to protect the wet environment.
6.) Keep pots in the light, but not in direct sunlight. Make sure they do not dry out. Pieces must be taken inside before any ice cream can be used. When small leaves emerge, those signal roots are formed.
7.) Remove the plastic, and, like any young person, hold the “start” under the clay plant. Keep the clay mixture moist, and start adding depleted fertilizer to the water every week.
- Watch George’s video on how to start cutting plants
Spring flower bulbs must be dried thoroughly before being sent and sold for planting.
Plan but do not plant bulbs yet
Spring-light bulbs are now starting to appear in garden centers and box stores, but it is too early to plant them.
When the tulips, daffodils, hyenas, etc., have enough time to heal after harvest, go into the ground when the soil has cooled in October.
That doesn’t mean it’s too fast to order from catalogs. If you order now, you will get a line for the best choice, then the seller will send you the bulbs during the main installation.
In addition to being too hot to plant now, bulbs sent to retail at this time may not be adequately cured, which can lead to decay and fungal problems when too wet bulbs are pre-packaged.
The Colorblends catalog clearly explains the problem:
“Bulbs in general and especially daffodils should ripen after harvest. The harvest season for daffodils is in late July or early August. The bulbs are machined and dropped to the ground. … If left in the open for at least two weeks, most of the drying will take place naturally.
“The problem is that light bulbs are being forced to collect and export farmers as soon as possible. how? Exporters in the Netherlands want to pick up the bulbs before August 10 and sometimes before August 5 so they can export daffodils from their other bulbs (tulips, crosses, etc.) to the United States.
Their customers in the United States are asking buyers of bulbs to supply bulbs by the end of August. That way, the bulbs will be visible for another two weeks before Halloween and Christmas items are pushed off the shelves.
“If you follow this program, you will not be able to provide proper drying for the daffodils. After digging the bulbs, you should take them out of the field within a week. Moisture in ampoules is more difficult to escape during grading, packaging and shipping. Or it will never come out.
“The result is immature daffodils. They are stored and shipped in a high humidity environment due to the moisture they release. This moisture provides an environment conducive to the growth and damage of all types of fungal bulbs.
If you decide to buy early in the retail business, carefully inspect the packaging for decomposition and then store the bulbs in a cool, dry place until late September until the best planting time.
If you want to do something, you can make your light bulb beds ready.
Dig the soil to a depth of 10 to 12 inches and work in two inches of fertilizer or similar organic matter to create slightly higher beds.
Lighten it, cover the ground with about two inches of bark, and you will be ready to put the bulbs in the fall.
- Additional tips on what to do: George’s “Pennsylvania Garden-Month Garden” book