After shaking and going through a cold, wet spring, this can be hard to imagine – but now is the time to think about watering the garden.
“Trees and other plants in the Midwest pass through a slight drought in July and August,” said Sharon Pusla, a botanist at Lillel The Morton Arborret. “That’s only a few months left, so it would be wise for homeowners to be prepared for it now.”
By thinking ahead, you can help your plants become weaker and more susceptible to pests and diseases. The ripeness of a mature tree is approximately 35% water, and the tomato plant is at least 90% water.
“All kinds of plants need enough water to stay healthy during the summer,” she said. Rainfall in July, April, and May lasts from the time you use the groundwater.
But if we do not pay attention, it is easy to water. “It’s not just a waste, it’s a waste,” she said. Excessive watering can disrupt plant growth and can lead to some diseases and pests.
For example, overgrown lawns provide a perfect home for gardeners, most of whom migrate to Japanese beetles.
Here are some tips from Yesla for watering this summer.
“Drinking water according to a specific program is a recipe for over-drinking or under-watering,” says ላsla. “The system promotes erosion and root rot when exposed to moisture in the soil. If it is lit two or three times a week for a short period of time, it will slightly reduce the appearance of the soil. This allows the grass and other plants to stay in the water while filling the water tank.
Close the timer instead. Only when you have determined that the soil is dry, turn on the sprinkler manually to irrigate.
“We have to pay more attention now, because our climate has changed and it has made the climate more flexible and unpredictable,” she said. We cannot go beyond what was estimated 20 or 30 years ago.
Many gardeners have a habit of watering every morning or every Saturday. Instead, get into the habit of inspecting the ground to see if water is needed. The easiest way is to dig up a couple of inches of dirt, touch the ground to see if it is wet, and consider the vegetation that is growing there.
“You need moisture in the top inch of soil to get salad seedlings, but for established trees, shrubs, perennials and lawns, it is enough if the soil is less than 2 inches wet,” said Pusla.
Your goal should be to get the top 6 inches of soil moisture. Then allow enough time – often in cold weather, during hot weather – to allow the water to sink deeper and allow the top few inches of soil to dry out. Re-irrigate after checking soil moisture.
When these tubes are placed in the soil in a backyard garden, their small holes allow water to flow slowly along their entire length. Soccer tubes carry the water to the soil, where the roots are located.
“Because the leaves do not get wet, they reduce the risk of plant diseases,” he said.
As the water slowly seeps in, the roots have time to absorb. Drainage pipes are less wasteful than spraying because water does not enter the air and evaporates. Put the pipes in place first, then cover with foil and leave them for the rest of the season.
Trees and shrubs need extra watering during the first two to three years as their root system is immature. You can water them with a zipper or a bucket around the tree trunk, spraying, and watering special bags.
“The water is deep, and the roots are near the roots,” she said. “Plan 10 to 15 gallons each week or 10 days, depending on the weather.”
Among many other benefits, the mold layer prevents water from evaporating from the soil. In permanent beds, 1 or 2 inches deep is sufficient. Spread evenly over 3 to 4 inches deep around trees and shrubs. “Just be careful not to overdo it,” Yessla said.
For advice on trees and plants, contact the Plant Clinic at The Morton Arboretum (630-719-2424). mortonarb.org/plant-clinic, Or firstname.lastname@example.org). Bet Bots is a staff writer at Arboretum.